Thursday, April 05, 2007

Ohanami





Hanami, or ohanami literally means `flower watching.` It is a traditional Japanese custom/pastime done throughout the year, but now generally refers specifically to the venerated cherry blossom (sakura.) Neither the pictures I had seen nor the blooming of ume (plum) flowers did little to prepare me for extrodinary sight of Tokyo`s sudden eruption into various shades of pink and white. Bare-branched trees, which one would pass by without a second thought, transformed overnight into the locus of Japanese culture. To illustrate how important these tiny blossoms are, it is not uncommon to see elderly men and women with their cameras taking close up pictures of the sakura despite having probably having 100 such photos already. Lovers stroll under the tree-lined walkways, children laugh, play and have their pictures taken. And perhaps the best part of the whole deal is the modern manifestation of hanami. While once it was the contemplative tradition of observing and appreciating the beauty and essence of the sakura (which I think is totally cool and something that sets Japanese culture apart from ours,) it is now largely a picnic/party. There is a saying that goes something like `it is better to have a full stomach than to watch flowers.` So these days parks and groves fill with partygoers. Gathered in little clusters on tarps with friends, family or colleagues, people enjoy camaraderie, food and the beverage of choice, which is no longer sake, but beer.
I had the fortune of attending two such gatherings last Sunday. One in the massive Showa Memorial Park (formerly an American Military Base) and the other in Kichijoji. Both were stunningly beautiful places and equally crowded. The cherry groves were old and large enough to form a canopy of sakura overhead which creates a sort of mystical, fantasy world as petals slowly fall like tiny dancers. Combined with the fact that and I was among friends including the girl I`m sweet on, Tomoko, at the second party, it turned out to be the most amazing experience. Naturally, since I was so absorbed in going to the Shinto fertility rite and two hanami parties, I largely forgot to eat. So the end to the day was me pretty trashed. What a fine conclusion to a day which was most certainly a highlight of my time here in Japan.

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